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Visiting Koh Chang: Thailand’s Tropical Playground for the Mildly Functional Human
Ah, Koh Chang. Thailand’s oversized jungle island that somehow manages to be both a tropical paradise and the backdrop to every mosquito’s honeymoon. If you’re looking for white sand beaches, adventurous jungle treks, and the chance to scream at your scooter rental while going downhill with questionable brakes, this is the place for you.
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Beaches That Will Ruin Most Other Beaches
Let’s start with the beaches, because that’s the only reason 90% of you Googled "Is Koh Chang worth visiting?" (Yes. But also, kind of no. Read on.)
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White Sand Beach – This is the Koh Chang equivalent of Times Square, except with less neon and more people in flip-flops who haven’t applied sunscreen properly. It’s the busiest, most developed beach, so you’ll find everything from fancy resorts to bars blasting Bob Marley remixes like it’s still 2005.
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Lonely Beach – Ironically, not lonely. This is where all the backpackers come to “find themselves,” which usually just means getting a $5 tattoo and a Chang beer tank top. Great for nightlife, worse for anyone who enjoys silence, sobriety, or sleep.
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Kai Bae Beach – Think of this one as the Goldilocks beach: not too crazy, not too boring, just right. Plus, there are baby elephants that come out for photo ops. It’s adorable and slightly guilt-inducing.
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Klong Prao Beach – Quieter and more family-friendly. Good if you’ve aged out of drinking buckets of alcohol or if your idea of fun is falling asleep at 9 PM with the sound of waves and your questionable life choices in the background.
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Where to Stay (A.K.A. How to Avoid Sleeping on the Beach)
Koh Chang has something for everyone, from budget bungalows where geckos are considered roommates to resorts that make you question your life back home.
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Budget (under $20/night): You’ll find dorm beds and basic bungalows with ceiling fans, hammocks, and a unique blend of backpacker body odor and incense. Expect mosquitoes, communal bathrooms, and a surprisingly high number of dreadlocks.
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Mid-range ($30–80/night): Think A/C, actual hot showers, and rooms that don’t double as ant colonies. Great for couples, solo travelers with standards, and anyone who likes Wi-Fi that works 40% of the time.
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Luxury ($100+): Pools, spas, breakfast buffets, and staff who pretend not to judge your sunburn. Bonus: robes fluffy enough to make you consider stealing them.
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Getting Around (Or: How to Flirt With Death on Two Wheels)
Public transportation? That’s cute. Here, your choices are:
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Scooter rental: $5–10 a day, depending on how hard you bargain and how desperate the shop owner is. Note: helmets are optional, but your sudden existential awareness after sliding on gravel is not.
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Songthaews: These are pickup trucks with benches in the back. You flag one down like a boss, agree to a fare that may or may not be extortion, and hold on for dear life as they swerve through jungle curves like Vin Diesel in flip-flops.
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Walking: Technically possible, if you’re a masochist with iron calves and no regard for humidity.
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Nightlife: The Island of Buckets and Regret
Let’s be honest, you didn’t come here for a quiet nightcap. The nightlife on Koh Chang ranges from “chill reggae beach bar” to “full-on DJ rave in a treehouse with questionable plumbing.”
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Lonely Beach is where things go from “fun” to “someone please hold my hair.” Buckets of alcohol are the go-to because what’s better than pouring three liquors and a Red Bull into a child’s sand toy and calling it a cocktail?
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Fire shows? Every night. Are they safe? Probably not. But they are very Instagrammable until the guy lights his pants on fire.
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Don’t be surprised if a party ends with skinny dipping, losing your sandals, and waking up next to a dog that somehow became your best friend. It’s all part of the charm.
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Daytime Activities (For When You’re Not Hungover or Hiding from the Sun)
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Waterfalls: Hike to them, swim in them, question whether it was worth the mosquito bites and farang entrance fee. Klong Plu is the most accessible, which means you’ll share it with 47 tourists and 1 confused monkey.
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Snorkeling and Diving: The water’s clear, the fish are friendly, and the boat trips come with more fruit than a Whole Foods produce section.
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Kayaking and Paddleboarding: Great if you want to work out your shoulders while drifting into a sun-induced existential crisis.
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Elephant Camps: A mixed bag. Some are ethical-ish, others not so much. Do your research if you care about elephant happiness and don’t want to get canceled on Instagram.
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Final Thoughts Before You Book That One-Way Ticket
Koh Chang is a little wild, a little messy, and a lot of fun. You’ll eat too much pad thai, sunburn parts of your body you didn’t know could burn, and possibly scream into the jungle once or twice. And you’ll love it.
Just remember: Always wear a helmet, never trust the quiet dog at the hostel, and bring cash. Because the one ATM on the island will absolutely be out of service when you need it.
Happy (chaotic) travels!
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EXTRA: How to Get to Koh Chang From Bangkok (A Saga in Three Acts)
Ah yes, getting to Koh Chang. It’s not hard. It's just mildly inconvenient, slightly confusing, and guaranteed to test your relationship with Google Maps.
Option 1: The “VIP” Bus + Ferry Combo
The easiest option for people who like to have other people make decisions for them. Several companies offer combo tickets from Bangkok (usually from Ekkamai or Mo Chit bus terminals) to Trat and then straight to the ferry dock. Bonus: they’ll sometimes even put you on the ferry and drive you all the way to your hotel. You’ll feel like royalty, if royalty were sweating through their backpack and snacking on suspicious roadside snacks. Total time: 7–9 hours. Total cost: around $20–$25.
Option 2: DIY Bus or Minivan to Trat + Ferry
If you're feeling frisky and want to save a few bucks (and by bucks, we mean maybe $4), you can grab a public bus or minivan to Trat. They leave from Ekkamai Bus Station every couple of hours. Once in Trat, you'll get a shared songthaew or tuk-tuk to the ferry terminal. It’s like a scavenger hunt but with fewer clues and more humidity.
Option 3: Fly to Trat Airport (AKA "I Have Money and No Patience")
Bangkok Airways is the only airline that flies to Trat, and they know it. The prices reflect that (usually $80–$150 one way) but it’ll save you 5–6 hours of your life, which you can then spend sipping a beach cocktail and pretending you're not panicking about your flight home. Once you land, hop in a van to the ferry pier and voilà, you’re only a short boat ride away from paradise (or at least a beach with semi-reliable Wi-Fi).
The Ferry: AKA the Final Test
Ferries leave from Ao Thammachat Pier and run pretty frequently from 7 AM to 7 PM. The ride takes about 30–45 minutes, and it’s cheap at around 100 baht (about $3). They’ll load cars, scooters, chickens, tourists, and probably one guy who’s lived on Koh Chang since 1996 and refuses to speak to anyone wearing shoes.
Once on the island, you’ll be greeted with steep hills, ocean views, and the distinct realization that you forgot to book accommodation for the first night. Welcome to Koh Chang. You’re doing great.
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